Experts warn of dangers of volcano tourism

At one of Central America’s most popular tourist attractions, you can stand hundreds of meters from boiling volcanic lava.

Meet any backpacker in a hotel bar in Central America and there’s a good chance they’ve already hiked or are planning to hike the twin volcanoes of Acatenango and Fuego.

“What I remember most was the sound of the bubbling,” recalled 23-year-old Leila Mitchell, who visited in 2022. It’s truly breathtaking.

The recent increase in volcanic activity has caused a surge in the popularity of tourist activities, but has also made them more dangerous.

“It’s only a matter of time before someone dies,” said Matthew Watson, professor of volcanoes and climate at the University of Bristol.

The two volcanoes sit on the outskirts of the city of Antigua in Guatemala’s central highlands.

Climbing volcanoes is considered a must for tourists visiting the country, and they are particularly fond of visiting Volcano Fuego because this active volcano erupts 200 times a day.

Numerous tour companies take advantage of this feat of nature, taking tour groups perilously close to Fuego’s boiling caldera. It is understood that some can reach within 100 meters of its edge.

Professor Watson used to take students on field trips to Fuego every year, but stopped in 2015 after becoming more active. “An INSIVUMEH volcanologist advised not to go there, and we haven’t been there since,” he said.

INSIVUMEH is a government agency that monitors Fuego. It has recorded 79 severe eruptions, known as flare-ups, since 1999, more than 47 of which have occurred since 2015.

Six years ago, this intensification of activity had tragic consequences.

On June 3, 2018, a powerful volcanic eruption caught much of the surrounding area off guard. It buried the entire town of San Miguel Los Lotes under ash and rock.

That day, Jonathan Dovgan Prera ​​and a tour group he led were on their way back from Fuego to Acatenango.

“I remember hearing a tremor. An older tour guide said something bad was about to happen… ‘Run’.

His traveling group that day was made up of college athletes, and they made it back to base camp unscathed. “You could feel the ash and small rocks hitting you,” he recalled. “That was one of the scariest moments of my life.”

The official death toll from the volcanic eruption was 218, but locals said as many as 3,500 people were missing that day.

Professor Watson said outdated census data explained the discrepancy and the difficulty in identifying remains.

Despite his near-death experience, Jonathan continues to climb Fuego and leads two to three tour groups a week up the active volcano.

“Explosive activity continues every day, almost continuously,” said INSIVUMEH volcanologist Roberto Mérida. “That’s what attracts visitors’ attention.”

However, many people are completely unaware of the risks that come with this much-touted travel experience.

Leila’s 23-year-old boyfriend, Louis Martlew, visited the volcano with her. “We signed a piece of paper and laughed and said we were signing our lives.”

It wasn’t until they returned that another traveler told them about the 2018 eruption. “I was stupid and didn’t realize how bad it would be,” Leila said.

“Because it’s designed for tourists and that’s just what happens, I think it’s completely safe.”

Six years later, hiking is more popular than ever.

Local guides estimate that 200 to 400 people visit the volcano every day, with numbers swelling to 1,000 on busy Fridays or Saturdays.

Matt Hartell was one of the first adventure guides to set up shop in the area in 1998. “Now there are 30 other companies here every week.”

Tourism is a huge economic driver for Antigua and Guatemala as a whole. In 2018, tourism brought more than £838 million to the Central American country’s coffers.

Those who make a living leading groups up volcanoes are most at risk because they stay in the danger zone much longer than most others.

“Some of my tour guides don’t want to take people there,” Matt Hartle said, adding that he himself tries to avoid going there “whenever possible.”

So, are there any other options?

Acatenango is Fuego’s dormant twin, and its terraces offer stunning views of Fuego’s lava show.

All tours begin by hiking Acatenango and resting at the base camp there. The more adventurous can continue to Fuego.

Professor Watson is baffled that the tour group continues to the active volcano. “Given how nice the viewing platform on the terrace is [of Acatenango] Yes, this seems like a completely unnecessary risk.

INSIVUMEH posts daily bulletins in Spanish on Facebook, X and its website, warning those who get too close to Fuego Crater of the risk of injury or death.

But since climbing Fuego is not illegal, INSIVUMEH can only warn of the risks and has no ability to prevent tourists from going.

On the ground, it was unclear who was responsible. Local municipalities charge entrance fees to different parts of each volcano and surrounding areas.

Tour guide Matt said volcano tourism was a “cash cow” for local authorities and central government was “not strong enough” to impose any restrictions.

INSIVUMEH Volcanologist Roberto Mérida is pessimistic that everything will change in time to avoid disaster.

“Municipalities, tour operators and tourism agencies prioritize economic development over disaster prevention.”

“Action is usually [only taken] A response to tragedy,” he added. “In this case, until one or more tourists die at Fuego Volcano.”

In this regard, Guatemala’s National Tourism Institute (INGUAT) told the BBC that “based on risk prevention information from official sources and in accordance with the regulations of the corresponding national parks and protected areas, we provide recommendations and recommendations for domestic and foreign tourists.” district.

INGUAT added that it does not promote tourism “in locations that pose any type of danger to tourists” and “does not derive any type of income or benefit from visits to any national park, natural park or volcano.”

The cities of Acatenango and San Juan Alotenango have been contacted for comment.

Some think better lines of communication might help.

Dr. Elsa Naismith’s doctoral thesis was on Tierra del Fuego. During her research trip, she spoke with many tour guides who were eager to learn more about the volcanoes on which they had built their careers. “Based on our experience studying it, it seems obvious that it’s dangerous. But sometimes it’s not,” she said.

Asked if he would like more interaction with volcanologists and monitoring agencies, tour guide Jonathan Dovgan Prera ​​said he was keen. “It will give us a little more insight into what’s going to happen next.”

His fellow tour guide Matt Hartell would like to see a formal roundtable dialogue between groups that regularly visit the volcano and those with the expertise to effectively manage tourism and volcano conservation.

But volcanologists think that’s not enough.

Roberto Merida suggested “a restricted zone, the radius of which depends on the degree of volcanic activity”.

Others simply think the risk is too high and would rather no one go to Fuego or just climb Acatenango.

But convincing adventurous travelers is no easy task.

Some, like 24-year-old Alex Gordon, say the experience of being near the boiling crater is unique and they’re willing to risk it.

“Feel [of being] The top of the volcano will always be with me,” he said.

Laila wasn’t sure. Climbing the two dormant volcanoes, which offer breathtaking views, “is still a challenge to walk in the beautiful scenery,” she said.

Given her knowledge of the dangers now, she was happy to watch Fuego Volcano’s spectacular eruptions from a safe distance.