British Broadcasting CorporationOn the eve of the Olympics, some Parisians were complaining. Security concerns and overcrowding have been top concerns for locals over the past few weeks, a time of great political instability in the country.
Making matters worse was a wave of coordinated arson attacks on France’s rail network on Friday, disrupting the travel plans of hundreds of thousands of people.
But an energetic opening ceremony and France’s early medal haul have begun to give many in the city a sense of optimism.
As the rain clouds clear, some of the city’s residents say the campaign is starting to bring some much-needed unity to France.
The morning after France won its first Olympic gold medal, the sun finally shone on the fan zone in the city’s 13th arrondissement, where couples and families lay on deck chairs and watched on the big screen.
A man called Max was over the moon after France won the men’s rugby sevens tournament. “I’m very proud,” he said. “But I’m always excited about the Olympics, even if some people aren’t.”
The tone of the sporting event so far may have been set by Friday’s ambitious opening ceremony, which seemed to go off without a hitch to the surprise of many locals.
As if to forestall the possibility of problems, director Thomas Jolly included a pre-filmed insert showing torchbearer Zinedine Zidane sitting on a broken down subway train.
“I’m pretty sure that everyone who sees the ceremony will change their mind,” said cyclist Pierre, who was previously annoyed by the massive security lockdown.
“I’m not very optimistic about the Olympics. I have to say I’m a bit grumpy,” said a rugby fan named Vincent. “But now I find the atmosphere cool.”
The downpour at the ceremony continued into the weekend, but enthusiasm was not dampened. Crowds lining the streets erupted in cheers and spontaneous singing of the French national anthem “La Marseillaise” as they watched the cyclists brave dangerous conditions in the time trial.
Curious locals perch on upstairs windowsills or precariously lean on street furniture to get a good view. The police couldn’t help but take pictures. Even delivery people on bicycles, visibly confused by the many road closures, stopped to drink water.
As competitors whizzed past, ice cream vendor Ludwig set up his stall on Avenue Saint-Germain, struggling with sales in the humid weather but above all the “good atmosphere” brought by the global sporting competition.
With French athletes enjoying some early success in the sport, it seems likely that this good feeling will continue beyond the opening ceremony. As the first batch of medals rolled in, passersby poked their heads into the bar to watch the TV screens and applauded.
Two judo fans who dressed up as much-loved comic book characters Asterix and Obelix said the Olympics proved an “incredible” display of French culture and unity.
Outside the Ares Arena, Thomas-Felix and Sébastien said it was disappointing that France’s Luca Mkhize lost in the men’s 60kg final, but at least they were surrounded by many compatriots who could ” Cry together.”
Some Parisians are pleased to see things other than politics starting to dominate the headlines. For Caroline Loire, who organizes street theater during the Olympics, the sport represents “rest”.
Weeks ago, a hastily formed left-wing coalition triumphed in the second round of snap parliamentary elections after the far-right National Rally took the lead in the first round of voting. France is now in the hands of a caretaker government and its future is uncertain.
“[President] Macron wants us to forget about politics, but we won’t,” said art student Adrienne, who was delighted to watch the Olympic table tennis match. “We will thank our athletes and athletes – but we will not forget.”
Another, named Alexandre, expressed doubts that the Olympics would have a long-term positive impact, but saw it as a good opportunity for France to “show what it can do”. He said that was important given Friday’s rail attack. “The situation is serious,” he lamented.
Even if the Olympics did distract many people for a time, enthusiasm was far from universal.
“I’m not excited. I don’t think Paris is the right place,” said student Melissa, who suggested that a different city would be better equipped to handle the crowds.
There are fears that Paris’ infrastructure could be overwhelmed under the pressure of so many tourists, but some of the most central streets and even metro stations feel eerily quiet – perhaps because many locals abandon the city in the summer.
Some barriers remained on the Île Saint-Louis in the Seine on Saturday, which was cordoned off for the opening ceremony. Foot traffic seems to be relatively low.
Some businesses that remain open said it remains to be seen whether the influx of Olympic tourists will make up for lost trade. Pointing to a row of empty tables, one restaurant owner said the Olympics were good news for France but “bad for business.”
Further south, spectators and Olympic delegates began to seek out the bars and cafes of the Latin Quarter – although a Greek shop called Olympie was noticeably closed.
“I don’t care if the Olympics are held in Paris,” said Jean-Louis, a bistro owner who was busy greeting passing customers.
“This is just a French perspective, but it’s not reality,” he said of the Olympics. He said poverty was a more important issue for millions of people. After all, he said, “the Olympics won’t give me anything to eat.”
