A little over a week ago, Taquería El Califa de León was just one of nearly 11,000 registered taco joints in Mexico City, though there are undoubtedly many more that haven’t. Sure, it’s nearly 60 years old and popular, especially among politicians working nearby. But it’s mostly a locally known taco stand.
Then, on May 14, life changed completely when the cash-only taco shop barely had enough room to stand, sold four tacos — three beef, one pork — and its grill Radiating intense heat. On that day, the Michelin Guide, the world’s most widely recognized gastronomic arbitration institution, released its first Mexican edition.
Of the 18 restaurants in Mexico with at least one Michelin star, many of them upscale, El Califa de León is the only street food stall. (Outdoor food stands elsewhere in the world have been awarded Michelin stars.)
Business has since surged. The waiting time was extended from 10 minutes to up to 3 hours.
A nearby store began renting stools to customers waiting in line. More workers were hired to help meet growing demand. Visitors come from all over the world, many taking photos while the food is being prepared. Sales have doubled, according to taco stand owner Mario Hernández Alonso.
“It’s great,” said Arturo Rivera Martinez, who has worked at the El Califa de Leon barbecue restaurant for 20 years.
Of course, tacos are the emblem of Mexican cuisine, especially in the capital, a metropolitan area of 23 million people where nearly every neighborhood has a taco shop.
People develop special relationships with taco shops: one in their neighborhood, one close to work, one with their favorite taco al pastor, one open 24 hours a day.
“In Mexico City, and I’d say in the entire country, tacos are a religion,” said Rodolfo Valentino, 31, who works next door to El Califa de León and has a 50-year-old job since the stand. He has watched the neighborhood transform since its Michelin star. “So it’s important that it’s recognized.”
Owner Mr Hernandez said awarding a Michelin star to a Mexican street food restaurant “provides an opportunity for those who don’t have five-star establishments, tablecloths and famous chefs”.
“For a lot cheaper than you would at a Michelin restaurant,” he added, “you can have a taco.”
The tortillas at El Califa de León are more expensive than typical street tortillas, which cost just 60 cents. The cheapest tacos Mr. Hernández sells (steak) are about $3, and the most expensive (pork chops or beef ribs) are $5. But Mr. Hernandez insists that the cuts at Leon’s California are as big as a large fist and are of better quality, something some customers confirmed.
“If this wasn’t true, I would burn my hands off,” he said.
Mr. Hernandez, 66, learned the intricacies of meat from his father, a butcher who was involved in the bullfighting world, and became friends with bullfighters and ranchers.
His parents opened the taco shop in 1968 after opening a restaurant in Mexico City that is still open today.
The taco shop is named after the famous Mexican bullfighter Rodolfo Gaona, nicknamed El Califa de León (the Caliph of León, the central Mexican city where Mr. Gaona was born). Mr. Hernandez’s family has close ties.
He is also the inspiration for one of the stall’s signature tacos, the “gaonera.” One day, Mr. Hernandez said, his father prepared a thin filet mignon for Mr. Gaona.
But the way he cooks it is different from how many tacos are typically made. He marinates the meat in lard instead of spraying oil on the grill, and drizzles it with lime and salt while it’s cooking (not after). He said all meat to this day is prepared this way.
The Michelin citation noted that the gaonera tacos were “outstanding” and “very expertly prepared.” The combination with freshly cooked tortillas is “basic and pure.”
Although the guide says “meats and tortillas of this size” make homemade salsa “little necessary,” customers still opt for spicy green (serrano) and red (pasilla, guajillo and apollo) chili) condiment.
Mr. Rivera, a 56-year-old grillman, said he had no idea what a Michelin star was until company representatives announced the news and invited him to a ceremony in Mexico City.
Even though he had no gastronomic training and this was his first cooking job, he was awarded a white Michelin chef’s jacket. Now, customers ask for photos with him and watch in awe as he grills his meat.
“It’s exciting because I’ve never gotten recognition like this,” he said. “When you hear the word ‘chef,’ this is a restaurant. But I work here and I’m very proud.
He added that the Michelin star was “unbelievable” because “at the end of the day, this is a quesadilla and a very simple taco” to have earned such an honor.
Some reviewers wonder why El Califa de León earned one star and not other, more popular taco shops. A social media influencer who reviewed the food slammed the taco, saying it was too expensive and the meat was tough and bland. But many people feel differently — or at least are willing to line up to try it.
“The taqueria will become a legend,” said Mauricio Alva, a 58-year-old Mexico City resident who decided to visit after watching Michelin’s announcement online.
A few days ago, he and a friend waited for two hours. “Taste is complex – you like it or you don’t,” Mr. Alva said, “but it’s worth supporting them and acknowledging that they’ve earned this recognition for a reason.”
The narrow sidewalk in front of the taco stand is alive with life. Some nearby shops complained about the large crowds, saying it interfered with their business.
But others also adapted: One store sold drinks to customers waiting in line, and Mr. Valentino’s family clothing store set up tables for taco stand customers, with men’s underwear, shirts and mannequins in the middle.
Eileen Sosnicki, 38, and Erika Mahon, 39, both traveling from Chicago, arrived in Leon California early Wednesday and waited 75 minutes. They had previously visited Mexico City and dined at some high-end restaurants that had received Michelin stars. But when they heard about a taco shop joining the ranks, they wanted to try it too.
“Experience is half the battle,” Ms. Mahon said. “And there are different levels of experience. A taco stand has its own experience and aura, and the experience of sitting down is different. Neither is better or worse, but people may be more snobbish about it.
Along with them are the British, Germans, Nicaraguans, Hondurans and Dominicans.
